Had no problem leaving this morning. The boat on our port side went out early and so did a couple of boats in front of us, so we had a straight shot, but I bet there were plenty of angry boaters who wanted to leave but couldn't, because they were boxed in.
Lovely, warm, calm day. Sky full of huge cumulus clouds. Motored leisurely north to Desolation Sound.
The Sound is every bit as beautiful as the travel brochures say. A myriad of wooded islands, sparkling water, magnificent towering mountains, some of them snow-capped--how fortunate we are to have the privilege of seeing this!
We were going to anchor in Laura Cove, but it was full of boats, so we anchored just outside Prideaux Haven, the marine park, which was also full of boats. This is where rich folks come to get away from it all. Most of them come in 80-foot million-dollar motor yachts, complete with washer, dryer, and hi-fi. Then there are the "po' folks" like us, who merely have a $150,000 sailboat, complete with microwave oven, TV, and VCR. Roughing it just isn't what it used to be!
We ran a line from the stern to a big log on the shore, so the boat wouldn't move around. Then we got in our Royaks and paddled around. This is an absolutely perfect place for Royaking. We feel as if we're on a huge lake high in the mountains instead of on an arm of the ocean. The woods are too thick to walk through. The air smells so good. The water is surprisingly warm. This is paradise!
We paddled all around Laura Cove and then back to the open sound. Roy returned to the Jofian, but I continued paddling. Went around Melanie Cove and Prideaux Haven. Heard a waterfall, but the trees were too thick to see it. Found a trail going into the woods and tried to walk up it, but it didn't go very far. Some people on a sailboat called me over. They wanted to see my "kayak", so I told them all about Royaks.
On my way back to the Jofian, I was surprised to see the Jofian coming towards me! It turned out the wind had come up, the anchor had slipped, and the Jofian had headed for the rocks. It's sure a good thing Roy was there. He managed to untie the stern line, start the engine, pull up the anchor, and steer away from danger, but he really had his hands full, running back and forth between the anchor winch and the helm. It's a shame I wasn't there to help.
We went into calm, peaceful Melanie Cove and anchored safely there.
Friday, December 31, 2010
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Thursday, August 6, 1992 - Westview
We had just finished breakfast when a strong wind came up and we started dragging. Roy turned on the engine real fast, and I pulled up the anchor moments before we would have crashed into another boat. Boy, were we lucky that hadn't happened while we were asleep or yesterday evening when we were off the boat! The timing was perfect.
Enjoyed a pleasant motor-sail to Westview. Good breeze out of the southwest. For a while, we were even able to turn off the engine and sail at 6 knots. It was a shame to take in the sail to go into the marina.
The Westview marina looked small and crowded. We were about to turn around and go elsewhere, but the guy on the dock kept urging us to go in, and someone on another boat said there was plenty of room inside and we should go to the far corner. Ha! Got inside, and it was narrow and shallow. When it was too late, we found out we were supposed to raft to the first sailboat instead of going to the far corner. Roy tried to turn around, but it was too tight and we went aground. Fortunately, there were a lot of people on the dock who were eager to help. After several tries, Roy threw them a line, and they pulled us off. We had no further problem rafting to the sailboat.
We thought we'd gotten the last spot, but boats kept coming in, and the dockmaster kept putting them someplace. They were packed in like sardines. It was incredible. We had never seen so many boats in such a tiny place. We were lucky to be on the edge; the boats inside had no way to get out. I heard someone who'd been here before say he'd never seen it so crowded.
The rates here are ridiculously high. We had to pay $15.55 for the "berth" plus $2.15 for electricity. And the showers are 25 cents a minute!
Walked over to a grocery store. Prices there were high, too. Roy was going to buy a couple of pounds of chocolate-covered raisins, but when we got to the register, they rang up at more than $16! So we returned them.
When we got back to the boat, another sailboat had rafted to our port side! But they're planning on leaving early in the morning, so that's ok.
In the process of going back and forth from our boat to the dock, which, of course, involved walking across the deck of the boat on our starboard side, I accidentally stepped on the plastic nozzle of their Sun Shower, which they had left lying on the deck. It was smashed beyond repair, so I bought them a new one.
Enjoyed a pleasant motor-sail to Westview. Good breeze out of the southwest. For a while, we were even able to turn off the engine and sail at 6 knots. It was a shame to take in the sail to go into the marina.
The Westview marina looked small and crowded. We were about to turn around and go elsewhere, but the guy on the dock kept urging us to go in, and someone on another boat said there was plenty of room inside and we should go to the far corner. Ha! Got inside, and it was narrow and shallow. When it was too late, we found out we were supposed to raft to the first sailboat instead of going to the far corner. Roy tried to turn around, but it was too tight and we went aground. Fortunately, there were a lot of people on the dock who were eager to help. After several tries, Roy threw them a line, and they pulled us off. We had no further problem rafting to the sailboat.
We thought we'd gotten the last spot, but boats kept coming in, and the dockmaster kept putting them someplace. They were packed in like sardines. It was incredible. We had never seen so many boats in such a tiny place. We were lucky to be on the edge; the boats inside had no way to get out. I heard someone who'd been here before say he'd never seen it so crowded.
The rates here are ridiculously high. We had to pay $15.55 for the "berth" plus $2.15 for electricity. And the showers are 25 cents a minute!
Walked over to a grocery store. Prices there were high, too. Roy was going to buy a couple of pounds of chocolate-covered raisins, but when we got to the register, they rang up at more than $16! So we returned them.
When we got back to the boat, another sailboat had rafted to our port side! But they're planning on leaving early in the morning, so that's ok.
In the process of going back and forth from our boat to the dock, which, of course, involved walking across the deck of the boat on our starboard side, I accidentally stepped on the plastic nozzle of their Sun Shower, which they had left lying on the deck. It was smashed beyond repair, so I bought them a new one.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Wednesday, August 5, 1992 - Vancouver, BC
Today, we enjoyed a leisurely cruise to Pender Harbor. This is quite a large harbor, with many coves and marinas. We were trying to find Garden Bay, where the marine park is, but we made a wrong turn and nearly went into Gunboat Bay, where there's a shoal. We realized where we were in the nick of time and turned around. At the same moment, two people in a dinghy rushed up to warn us, which was very nice of them. The Canadians we've met so far have gone out of their way to be helpful and friendly.
Dropped anchor in Garden Bay and went paddling. There's a yacht club here, but the docks are crowded. A lot of boats are anchored.
Paddled around Garden Bay and Gunboat Bay. This is a beautiful place. Lots of tall trees.
Tied our Royaks to the marine park dock and walked to the grocery store, but they didn't have much and the prices were high, so we just bought a few potatoes. Munched some luscious wild blackberries on the way back.
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Tuesday, August 4, 1992 - Vancouver
In the morning, Roy changed the oil, while I walked to a bank and exchanged some Travelers' Checks for Canadian dollars. Also went to a post office and bought a stamp to mail a letter to the U.S. Would you believe, Canada charges sales tax on postage stamps!!!
When I got back to the boat, we assembled our bikes and rode the trail around the perimeter of Stanley Park (5 1/2 miles). At Brockton Point, there's a cannon that was made in 1816. The sign said the cannon was fired every night at nine, making a very loud noise. So that's what we heard last night!
Ate lunch at the yacht club and then took off for Fisherman's Cove, a mere ten miles away. We just wanted to go someplace; it was such a temptation to stay in Vancouver.
When we approached Fisherman's Cove, it looked small and crowded, and we weren't able to contact the West Vancouver Yacht Club on the VHF, so we were going to turn around and go elsewhere, but a man at the fuel dock called to us and said there was plenty of room and we could tie to an end tie at the yacht club. He pointed it out to us. We went there and tied up. Ate supper and walked around a little.
Note: Mom's maiden name is Fraser. Aunt Marjorie was her dad's sister. Mom's dad and a lot of his family came to America from England in the early 1900's, but most of the family settled in Canada. As far as I know mom's dad is the only one who settled in the U.S.
When I got back to the boat, we assembled our bikes and rode the trail around the perimeter of Stanley Park (5 1/2 miles). At Brockton Point, there's a cannon that was made in 1816. The sign said the cannon was fired every night at nine, making a very loud noise. So that's what we heard last night!
Ate lunch at the yacht club and then took off for Fisherman's Cove, a mere ten miles away. We just wanted to go someplace; it was such a temptation to stay in Vancouver.
When we approached Fisherman's Cove, it looked small and crowded, and we weren't able to contact the West Vancouver Yacht Club on the VHF, so we were going to turn around and go elsewhere, but a man at the fuel dock called to us and said there was plenty of room and we could tie to an end tie at the yacht club. He pointed it out to us. We went there and tied up. Ate supper and walked around a little.
Note: Mom's maiden name is Fraser. Aunt Marjorie was her dad's sister. Mom's dad and a lot of his family came to America from England in the early 1900's, but most of the family settled in Canada. As far as I know mom's dad is the only one who settled in the U.S.
Monday, December 27, 2010
Monday, August 3, 1992 - Vancouver
Public transit here has three forms: street buses, elevated train ("Sky Train"), and ferry ("Sea Bus"). They're all the same fare, and you can transfer from one to another. For $2 each, we bought day passes that let us ride as much as we wished all day.
First, we rode the Sky Train to the end of the line in Surrey. Then we went back three stations to the 22nd Street station in New Westminster. Went over the Fraser River on a neat bridge. Saw acres of lumber and lots of log booms.
Got off the train and took the 154 bus to Colburne. Then we walked a block to the Kiwanis Care Center to visit my Aunt Marjorie.
As nursing homes go, the Kiwanis Care Center is one of the best. It's clean and attractive, without a trace of the odor you usually find in rest homes. The patients were nicely dressed and appeared well cared for. Nevertheless, it's pathetic to see people sitting around, waiting to die. When we entered, everyone looked up expectantly, hoping we'd come to visit them.
I doubt that Aunt Marjorie knew who I was, but she was glad to see us anyway. She's 87 and has had several strokes. Most of her memory's gone, but every once in a while she smiled and her eyes lit up.
Next, we rode the Sky Train to the other end of its line at the Vancouver waterfront. Rode the Sea Bus across the harbor to North Vancouver.
Beautiful, clear, warm, sunny day. Ate lunch at an attractive restaurant overlooking the water.
Took a bus up into the mountains. Visited an ecology center and then walked around in the beautiful woods. Crossed a suspension bridge high above a rushing stream. Walked some more, and then came to a stationary wooden bridge where some teenage boys were playing in the water. By "playing", I mean jumping and diving 60 to 80 feet into icy pools, leaping down waterfalls, etc. Watched them for a long time. How we envied them! If Roy had been fifty years younger, he'd have dived in with them.
Eventually we left the park and took a bus to a Sizzler that was almost exactly like the Sizzlers in California. Enjoyed a good supper.
When we got back to Vancouver, we strolled along the waterfront. At nine, we heard a tremendous explosion. Sounded as if a bomb had gone off. Looked around and saw smoke rising from the edge of Stanley Park, so we figured they were celebration B.C. Day. (Today is a holiday in Canada.)
First, we rode the Sky Train to the end of the line in Surrey. Then we went back three stations to the 22nd Street station in New Westminster. Went over the Fraser River on a neat bridge. Saw acres of lumber and lots of log booms.
Got off the train and took the 154 bus to Colburne. Then we walked a block to the Kiwanis Care Center to visit my Aunt Marjorie.
As nursing homes go, the Kiwanis Care Center is one of the best. It's clean and attractive, without a trace of the odor you usually find in rest homes. The patients were nicely dressed and appeared well cared for. Nevertheless, it's pathetic to see people sitting around, waiting to die. When we entered, everyone looked up expectantly, hoping we'd come to visit them.
I doubt that Aunt Marjorie knew who I was, but she was glad to see us anyway. She's 87 and has had several strokes. Most of her memory's gone, but every once in a while she smiled and her eyes lit up.
Next, we rode the Sky Train to the other end of its line at the Vancouver waterfront. Rode the Sea Bus across the harbor to North Vancouver.
Beautiful, clear, warm, sunny day. Ate lunch at an attractive restaurant overlooking the water.
Took a bus up into the mountains. Visited an ecology center and then walked around in the beautiful woods. Crossed a suspension bridge high above a rushing stream. Walked some more, and then came to a stationary wooden bridge where some teenage boys were playing in the water. By "playing", I mean jumping and diving 60 to 80 feet into icy pools, leaping down waterfalls, etc. Watched them for a long time. How we envied them! If Roy had been fifty years younger, he'd have dived in with them.
Eventually we left the park and took a bus to a Sizzler that was almost exactly like the Sizzlers in California. Enjoyed a good supper.
When we got back to Vancouver, we strolled along the waterfront. At nine, we heard a tremendous explosion. Sounded as if a bomb had gone off. Looked around and saw smoke rising from the edge of Stanley Park, so we figured they were celebration B.C. Day. (Today is a holiday in Canada.)
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Sunday, August 2, 1992 - Vancouver
The first part of our trip from Point Roberts to Vancouver was a dodge 'em game with fishing boats and their nets. They were all over the place! Fortunately, Roy was at the wheel. He had to keep a sharp lookout for the red balls that are attached to the ends of the nets. Then he had to figure out which boat was connected to the other end of the net. Since the nets were a half-mile or more long, this wasn't easy. But he managed to miss them all, and eventually we got away from the fishing boats. The rest of the trip was a cinch.
I had been to Vancouver two or three times by car or plane, but until we sailed into it, I didn't realize how huge the harbor is or how impressive the skyline is. This must be one of the largest and busiest harbors in the world, and downtown Vancouver has many attractive modern skyscrapers.
This is the first time on this trip that we've had an opportunity to take advantage of our yacht club membership. We were given two free nights at the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club. Most of the slips here have roofs for protection in the winter, but we tied up in the open. Roy cleared Customs by phone.
We're right next to world-famous, thousand-acre Stanley Park, with its magnificent trees, green shrubs, lakes, etc. There's a pedestrian/bicycle trail that follows the edge of the water almost all the way around the park, which is on a peninsula. We want to ride our bikes on the trail while we're here.
Walked a little way in the park. Ate ice cream and watched part of a cricket game. First time either of us had seen cricket played, so we had no idea what was going on. Then we walked to Safeway and bought a few groceries.
I had been to Vancouver two or three times by car or plane, but until we sailed into it, I didn't realize how huge the harbor is or how impressive the skyline is. This must be one of the largest and busiest harbors in the world, and downtown Vancouver has many attractive modern skyscrapers.
This is the first time on this trip that we've had an opportunity to take advantage of our yacht club membership. We were given two free nights at the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club. Most of the slips here have roofs for protection in the winter, but we tied up in the open. Roy cleared Customs by phone.
We're right next to world-famous, thousand-acre Stanley Park, with its magnificent trees, green shrubs, lakes, etc. There's a pedestrian/bicycle trail that follows the edge of the water almost all the way around the park, which is on a peninsula. We want to ride our bikes on the trail while we're here.
Walked a little way in the park. Ate ice cream and watched part of a cricket game. First time either of us had seen cricket played, so we had no idea what was going on. Then we walked to Safeway and bought a few groceries.
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Saturday, August 1, 1992 - Point Roberts
Rode our bikes all around Point Roberts. I mean that literally, because it's a very small place. Found lots of luscious blackberries. Ate a delicious lunch at the Dockside Cafe. Had stuffed Cornish game hen, boiled new potatoes, and mixed vegetables. Roy had carrot cake for dessert, and I had lemon meringue pie. Boy, was it good!
Bought a new U.S. flag and a crab trap. Took the stuff back to the boat, and then rode our bikes to Canada (all of two miles). Rode around a lot of expensive suburbs in Tsawassan. Marveled at the low-
tide beaches. When the tide goes out around here, it just keeps agoin'.
We had two minor crises today, both of which were easily solved. The first occurred in the morning, when we were getting ready to go bike riding. Even though we don't need passports to cross the border, I wanted to take them with us just in case. They weren't in their usual place! Panic! Where were our passports? After scratching our heads for a while, Roy remembered we'd had them in Ensenada, so they were probably with our ship's papers. That's exactly where they were. Whew!
The next crisis occurred in the evening. Roy was putting up our new U.S. flag, and I went to get our Canadian courtesy flag, which I knew I'd put under the mattress. It wasn't there! Both of us searched every inch under the mattress, but no luck. Finally, Roy moved the bicycles in the fo'c'sle and looked under the mattress there. He found the flag immediately. Whew again!
The boat next to us, "Chaim", went out about 7 p.m. An hour or so later, the Coast Guard towed her back in. The "Chaim" had run over a fishing net and gotten it entangled in their twin props. Three angry fishermen arrived soon afterwards.
The skipper of the "Chaim" told Roy it's a zoo out there. This is a three-day weekend in Canada, so zillions of boats are going out, and there are fishing boats pulling nets all over the place.
Bought a new U.S. flag and a crab trap. Took the stuff back to the boat, and then rode our bikes to Canada (all of two miles). Rode around a lot of expensive suburbs in Tsawassan. Marveled at the low-
tide beaches. When the tide goes out around here, it just keeps agoin'.
We had two minor crises today, both of which were easily solved. The first occurred in the morning, when we were getting ready to go bike riding. Even though we don't need passports to cross the border, I wanted to take them with us just in case. They weren't in their usual place! Panic! Where were our passports? After scratching our heads for a while, Roy remembered we'd had them in Ensenada, so they were probably with our ship's papers. That's exactly where they were. Whew!
The next crisis occurred in the evening. Roy was putting up our new U.S. flag, and I went to get our Canadian courtesy flag, which I knew I'd put under the mattress. It wasn't there! Both of us searched every inch under the mattress, but no luck. Finally, Roy moved the bicycles in the fo'c'sle and looked under the mattress there. He found the flag immediately. Whew again!
The boat next to us, "Chaim", went out about 7 p.m. An hour or so later, the Coast Guard towed her back in. The "Chaim" had run over a fishing net and gotten it entangled in their twin props. Three angry fishermen arrived soon afterwards.
The skipper of the "Chaim" told Roy it's a zoo out there. This is a three-day weekend in Canada, so zillions of boats are going out, and there are fishing boats pulling nets all over the place.
Friday, December 24, 2010
Friday, July 31, 1992 - Point Roberts
Enjoyed a leisurely cruise to Point Roberts. Warm, sunny, calm day. Encountered one weird stretch of water when we first entered the Strait of Georgia--lots of eddies, waves, and rips. Looked frightening from a distance, but there was no difficulty going through it.
Point Roberts is a tiny chunk of U.S. dangling off the end of Canada. There's a big marina with slips for 100 boats. There is also a yacht club, but no one was in the office, so we paid for a couple of nights in the marina.
It was the same story as at Port Angeles--the slip already had a boat in it. Went back to the marina office and got reassigned. This time, the slip was empty, so we tied up.
In the State of Washington, you have to put coins in a slot to take a shower. This is somewhat outrageous, considering the amount we paid for a slip. Anyway, when I checked out the showers here, I saw a slot for a dime, so we went to the showers armed with dimes. Someone was in the women's shower, so I waited 15 or 20 minutes. Then someone told me there was a second shower, so I went in there. Got undressed and tried to put a dime in the slot, but it wouldn't go. After two or three unsuccessful attempts, I saw a slot for a quarter. Since I had nothing but dimes, I put my clothes back on and went back towards the boat to get a quarter. Roy had the gate key, so I stood around for 10 or 15 minutes, hoping someone with a key would come along. Finally, a group of people with a key headed for the gate, but it turned out their key was for a different dock, so they couldn't open the gate I needed.
In the meantime, Roy had gone into the men's shower, laid out his dimes, and gotten undressed. Luckily, he had some quarters in his pocket, so when the gadget wouldn't take dimes, he put in a quarter. He grabbed the handle to turn on the shower, and the handle fell off! He tried to put it back on, while time was running on the meter. He finally got it on, adjusted the temperature, and enjoyed a good hot shower. He was all lathered up when the water suddenly turned icy cold. No matter what he did, he couldn't get any more hot water, so finally he went out to the wash basin with his wash cloth and rinsed off there, to the amusement of other guys going in and out.
When he finally emerged, we exchanged tales of woe. Then he gave me two quarters and let me back into the women's room (same key as the dock gate). Profiting from his experience, I turned the handle very gently and made sure I was rinsed off before the hot water quit.
Point Roberts is a tiny chunk of U.S. dangling off the end of Canada. There's a big marina with slips for 100 boats. There is also a yacht club, but no one was in the office, so we paid for a couple of nights in the marina.
It was the same story as at Port Angeles--the slip already had a boat in it. Went back to the marina office and got reassigned. This time, the slip was empty, so we tied up.
In the State of Washington, you have to put coins in a slot to take a shower. This is somewhat outrageous, considering the amount we paid for a slip. Anyway, when I checked out the showers here, I saw a slot for a dime, so we went to the showers armed with dimes. Someone was in the women's shower, so I waited 15 or 20 minutes. Then someone told me there was a second shower, so I went in there. Got undressed and tried to put a dime in the slot, but it wouldn't go. After two or three unsuccessful attempts, I saw a slot for a quarter. Since I had nothing but dimes, I put my clothes back on and went back towards the boat to get a quarter. Roy had the gate key, so I stood around for 10 or 15 minutes, hoping someone with a key would come along. Finally, a group of people with a key headed for the gate, but it turned out their key was for a different dock, so they couldn't open the gate I needed.
In the meantime, Roy had gone into the men's shower, laid out his dimes, and gotten undressed. Luckily, he had some quarters in his pocket, so when the gadget wouldn't take dimes, he put in a quarter. He grabbed the handle to turn on the shower, and the handle fell off! He tried to put it back on, while time was running on the meter. He finally got it on, adjusted the temperature, and enjoyed a good hot shower. He was all lathered up when the water suddenly turned icy cold. No matter what he did, he couldn't get any more hot water, so finally he went out to the wash basin with his wash cloth and rinsed off there, to the amusement of other guys going in and out.
When he finally emerged, we exchanged tales of woe. Then he gave me two quarters and let me back into the women's room (same key as the dock gate). Profiting from his experience, I turned the handle very gently and made sure I was rinsed off before the hot water quit.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Thursday, July 30, 1992 - San Juan Islands
Glorious day! We had expected fog again this morning, but it was clear, sunny, warm, calm--a perfect day for cruising.
When we first started out, the tidal current was against us, so we were only making 4.4 knots over the ground, even though we were doing 6 knots through the water, but around noon the tide changed and we began truckin'.
The narrow entrance to San Juan Channel was exciting! The flood tide was rushing in at 7 knots, so we were zooming along at 13! Wow! Fastest the Jofian's ever gone. The water was full of choppy little waves, eddies, and tide rips. Hard to steer. But that was only for a short distance; then it smoothed out. We zoomed the entire distance (6 miles) from the entrance to Turn Rock in 20 minutes flat! I couldn't believe we were actually there already.
There's a large, crowded marina here. "Slip Assignments" (a young kid) told us to go to slip F29. We started towards it, but when Roy saw the fairway, he realized there wasn't room to turn around if anything went wrong, so we left the marina and anchored in the cove near the University of Washington Marine Biology Lab. Roy paddled over to the marina, and there was another boat in F29! So he was smart not to try to go in there. The boy at "Slip Assignments" apologized and admitted he had goofed. He'd forgotten that was a private slip. He said we could tie to the outside of the dock, but we decided to stay anchored.
What a beautiful place! We paddled all around Friday Harbor. There are a lot of expensive homes here with their own docks and boats.
So we finally made it to the San Juan Islands! From here on, it's easy, beautiful day hops, mostly protected from the ocean, except when crossing Queen Charlotte Sound. Tidal currents are more critical here than wind and waves.
When we first started out, the tidal current was against us, so we were only making 4.4 knots over the ground, even though we were doing 6 knots through the water, but around noon the tide changed and we began truckin'.
The narrow entrance to San Juan Channel was exciting! The flood tide was rushing in at 7 knots, so we were zooming along at 13! Wow! Fastest the Jofian's ever gone. The water was full of choppy little waves, eddies, and tide rips. Hard to steer. But that was only for a short distance; then it smoothed out. We zoomed the entire distance (6 miles) from the entrance to Turn Rock in 20 minutes flat! I couldn't believe we were actually there already.
There's a large, crowded marina here. "Slip Assignments" (a young kid) told us to go to slip F29. We started towards it, but when Roy saw the fairway, he realized there wasn't room to turn around if anything went wrong, so we left the marina and anchored in the cove near the University of Washington Marine Biology Lab. Roy paddled over to the marina, and there was another boat in F29! So he was smart not to try to go in there. The boy at "Slip Assignments" apologized and admitted he had goofed. He'd forgotten that was a private slip. He said we could tie to the outside of the dock, but we decided to stay anchored.
What a beautiful place! We paddled all around Friday Harbor. There are a lot of expensive homes here with their own docks and boats.
So we finally made it to the San Juan Islands! From here on, it's easy, beautiful day hops, mostly protected from the ocean, except when crossing Queen Charlotte Sound. Tidal currents are more critical here than wind and waves.
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Wednesday, July 29, 1992 - Port Angeles, WA
Woke up to dense fog, but it soon burned off and turned into a beautiful, warm, sunny day.
I sent Roy off to a medical clinic to see about his cold, while I walked to a nearby Safeway and bought about 80 pounds of groceries. Also stopped at a bank and got some Canadian money.
Roy took one look at the price tags and left the clinic without seeing a doctor. I told him he'd be reimbursed by Kaiser, but he didn't want to spend money on what he considers a mere cold.
After lunch, we bought a couple hundred more pounds of groceries, but this time we used the wagon.
Tear gas is prohibited in Canada, so we mailed our three containers to Steve.
I did the laundry, while Roy rode his bicycle to the marina to check out the fuel dock. It's open from 8 to 5, and there's room to turn around as long as the wind's not blowing, but we can wait until we get to the next port to buy fuel.
Tomorrow we head for the San Juan Islands!
I sent Roy off to a medical clinic to see about his cold, while I walked to a nearby Safeway and bought about 80 pounds of groceries. Also stopped at a bank and got some Canadian money.
Roy took one look at the price tags and left the clinic without seeing a doctor. I told him he'd be reimbursed by Kaiser, but he didn't want to spend money on what he considers a mere cold.
After lunch, we bought a couple hundred more pounds of groceries, but this time we used the wagon.
Tear gas is prohibited in Canada, so we mailed our three containers to Steve.
I did the laundry, while Roy rode his bicycle to the marina to check out the fuel dock. It's open from 8 to 5, and there's room to turn around as long as the wind's not blowing, but we can wait until we get to the next port to buy fuel.
Tomorrow we head for the San Juan Islands!
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Tuesday, July 28, 1992 - Port Angeles, WA
We had thought our trip to Port Angeles would be a cakewalk, since we'd be following the shoreline down the Strait of Juan de Fuca, with a west wind and waves pushing us along, but it turned out to be a little trickier than that. A strong outgoing tidal current held us back, so even though we were making 6 knots through the water, we were only doing 4.4 knots over the land. Then we ran right into a very thick fog. Thank goodness for radar! We could see only about 200 yards. Once, a tiny motorboat with four fishermen in it suddenly materialized 30 feet from our starboard bow! It hadn't appeared on radar at all. Fortunately, the tide turned around 11 o'clock, and the fog burned off by one, so after that it was a cinch. With the tide pushing us, we zoomed along at more than 9 knots over the land!
Two submarines and several small naval vessels passed to port.
A strong breeze came up when we were almost to Port Angeles, so we were able to sail into the harbor. We were amazed how strong the wind was in the harbor. There were whitecaps all over the place. We went over to the entrance to the marina, but it looked small and crowded, and the wind would have made maneuvering very difficult, so we looked for a place to anchor. Not able to contact the Harbor Master, so I talked with the Coast Guard on VHF and was told we could anchor next to the City Pier. Went over there and found a sheltered area with public docks behind the pier. Most of the docks were too small for the Jofian, but there was one long dock, so we tied up there. This is a really neat place. There's a pretty little park here with green grass and trees and a playground. There's also an observation platform on the pier.
Walked over to the Visitors' Center and got a bunch of brochures. Then we walked two miles to a restaurant, where we got a delicious buffet supper for less than $5!
Bus fares here are less than any other place we've ever been. Even less than in Mexico City. They're FREE! (For people over 65.)
In the evening, we watched the Victoria Ferry unload and load. We were amazed how many vehicles fit on that ferry. It was like the old circus act where fifty clowns pile out of a little Volkswagen. An endless stream of cars, trucks, RV's, and trailers poured out of that ferry, to be replaced by another endless stream. We couldn't believe our eyes!
Monday, December 20, 2010
Monday, July 27, 1992 - Neah Bay, WA
Made it around the Cape! Left La Push around 7 a.m., rounded Flattery about 2 p.m., dropped anchor in Neah Bay around 4 p.m.
Had little wind but lots of rockin' and rollin'. Overcast in the morning. Now it's sunny but cold and windy. We can look across the strait and see Canada (Vancouver Island).
We put on warm clothes and paddled around the bay for a couple of hours. There are beautiful wooded hills (and devastated clearcut hills), but the town isn't impressive. However, Roy bought some delicious cherries for 59 cents a pound.
Had little wind but lots of rockin' and rollin'. Overcast in the morning. Now it's sunny but cold and windy. We can look across the strait and see Canada (Vancouver Island).
We put on warm clothes and paddled around the bay for a couple of hours. There are beautiful wooded hills (and devastated clearcut hills), but the town isn't impressive. However, Roy bought some delicious cherries for 59 cents a pound.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Sunday, July 26, 1992 - La Push, WA
In the morning, I practiced loading the survival bags. Took me two whole minutes to load Bag #1 and another 1 1/3 minutes to load Bag #2. Didn't even try to pack Bag #3. Since a boat can sink in sixty seconds, I need a LOT more practice.
Roy replaced the broken straps on the mainsail batten holders. Then we took off on our bikes. There aren't many roads around here, so we went back up the road we took yesterday. Ate lunch at the same place. This time, in addition to the turkey sandwiches, we treated ourselves to dessert. Roy had a butterscotch shake, and I had a chocolate malt. Sure were delicious!
Rode along some bumpy dirt roads. With great difficulty, dragged our bikes around a barrier that consisted of a big pile of dirt and a deep ditch. The road only went 1/8 of a mile, so we had to drag our bikes back again.
On the way back to La Push, we stopped at the Third Beach trailhead and took turns walking the trail to the beach. Absolutely perfect trail! Tall, straight pine trees, bushy undergrowth. We really enjoyed it.
Got back to the boat at eight and stowed our bikes. Weather favorable for tomorrow.
Saturday, July 25, 1992 - La Push, WA
Another beautiful sunny day, but cooler. Roy didn't feel like walking, but he felt like bike-riding, so we assembled our bikes and took off. The air was so clear, we could see the snow-capped peak of Mount Olympus in the distance. Rode through part of the Olympic National Park to a little restaurant, where we ate delicious turkey sandwiches.
We wanted to get a trail map. The man in the store next to the restaurant advised us to go to the Mora Ranger Station, so we headed in that direction. To our amazement, we found ourselves riding over the same bridges we had paddled under a couple of days ago. We had made a big loop!
Came to the Mora campgrounds. Obtained a good map of the Olympic Peninsula from the rack. Walked down a beautiful sylvan trail to James Pond. Rode our bikes all around the campground. Enjoyed a good view of the Quileute River, where we'd paddled. What a beautiful place!
Rode over to Rialto Beach, which turned out to be 1/4 mile from the Jofian, but there was no way to cross the river with our bikes, so we had to go back the way we came.
From Rialto Beach, there's a hiking trail that goes 18 miles up the coast to Cape Alava. Then a three-mile trail takes you over to Ozette Lake. What a great hike that would be! Saw some families starting the hike. The adults had backpacks, each child had her little backpack, and even the doggies had their own backpacks. They trotted along so proudly!
Coming back, we had the most glorious view! In front of us, the lovely river. Above the river, lush green forests, and above the forests, the towering, snow-capped peaks of the Olympic Mountains. Breathtaking!
This time, the road went uphill both ways, canceling out the Port Orford road that went downhill in both directions. But there was one great stretch of downhill just before we got to La Push.
There are small-craft advisories and gale warnings, so we might be here a while.
We wanted to get a trail map. The man in the store next to the restaurant advised us to go to the Mora Ranger Station, so we headed in that direction. To our amazement, we found ourselves riding over the same bridges we had paddled under a couple of days ago. We had made a big loop!
Came to the Mora campgrounds. Obtained a good map of the Olympic Peninsula from the rack. Walked down a beautiful sylvan trail to James Pond. Rode our bikes all around the campground. Enjoyed a good view of the Quileute River, where we'd paddled. What a beautiful place!
Rode over to Rialto Beach, which turned out to be 1/4 mile from the Jofian, but there was no way to cross the river with our bikes, so we had to go back the way we came.
From Rialto Beach, there's a hiking trail that goes 18 miles up the coast to Cape Alava. Then a three-mile trail takes you over to Ozette Lake. What a great hike that would be! Saw some families starting the hike. The adults had backpacks, each child had her little backpack, and even the doggies had their own backpacks. They trotted along so proudly!
Coming back, we had the most glorious view! In front of us, the lovely river. Above the river, lush green forests, and above the forests, the towering, snow-capped peaks of the Olympic Mountains. Breathtaking!
This time, the road went uphill both ways, canceling out the Port Orford road that went downhill in both directions. But there was one great stretch of downhill just before we got to La Push.
There are small-craft advisories and gale warnings, so we might be here a while.
Friday, December 17, 2010
Friday, July 24, 1992 - La Push, WA
Today was sunny and warm, in contrast to yesterday, when it was completely overcast, cool, and damp, with occasional showers.
Roy slept all morning, thank goodness. After lunch of chicken soup and fruit salad, he felt well enough to go for a walk. His chest is very sore, and he's nearly lost his voice, but he's coughing less.
We walked past the Coast Guard station and across the rickety old wooden bridge we paddled under yesterday. Found the remains of an abandoned RV park and some delicious blackberries.
Returned to the village to visit the museum, but it was closed, so we walked along the beach. I took of my shoes and socks and waded. The water wasn't any colder than it is in California. Some kids were playing in the surf, and a few guys were surfing. The view was magnificent. The air was so clear, we could see all the way out past the far buoy. There was a tall dead tree on a hill with an eagle's nest on its top.
In the calm of evening, we turned the boat around so we can get out any time we want to.
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Thursday, July 23, 1992 - La Push, WA
Filled the tank and the empty jerry cans. The fuel dock attendant is also the Harbor Master. Arranged to tie up at a slip for a couple of days. Luckily, we got a slip at the new dock; all the others are falling apart. They're made of wood instead of concrete.
We're on the fabled Olympic Peninsula, land of snow-capped mountains, forests, and water. We can't see the mountains from here, but we're surrounded by forests and water. La Push is at the confluence of the Quileute, Soleduck, and Dickey Rivers. It's the tribal home of the Quileute. There are perhaps sixty Quileute families here, mostly living in poverty. Their main sources of income are tourists and fish. There's a small grocery store, a post office, an RV park, a gift shop, and a small restaurant. The village also boasts an elementary school, a police car, and a vintage fire engine.
We strolled along the beach near the RV park. From there, the buoy that had appeared to be sitting on the beach when we were on the water now seemed to be at least a mile out.
The beach has huge piles of driftwood, stretching its entire length. Not little pieces of wood, but enormous trees, stumps, and branches. We shuddered, thinking of bumping into one of those things out on the ocean.
After lunch, we paddled across to James Island, which was named for the first white man to climb to the top of the hill. We found a long, steep staircase, nearly 500 feet straight up. There were old tracks that had been used to haul materials to the top of the hill when the foghorn and lights were being installed. Later, the tracks were abandoned and wooden steps were built over the ties. We had a terrific view from up there, but the periodic howl of the foghorn was nearly deafening.
Later, we Royaked up the various rivers. The Dickey was very pleasant, with dense forests on both sides. It looked much the way it did 200 years ago when Lewis and Clark paddled down it in their canoe. But we weren't able to go very far due to a logjam completely blocking the river.
The Quileute was wider, and the banks were more littered with human debris. We paddled up it a couple of miles and then came to shallow rapids. We could have walked over them, pulling our Royaks, but it was getting late, so we turned around.
We went over to the spit on the far side of the harbor. It's even more littered with driftwood than the beach we'd walked on earlier. Someone had constructed a little driftwood shelter. Inside it were driftwood tables and chairs. There were orderly arrangements of smooth rocks on the tables.
We started to paddle up the third river, but it soon became very narrow and turned into a swamp. It was eerily quiet in there--no birds, no animals, no fish, no turtles, no frogs. But a few zillion mosquitoes went for a ride on our Royaks. We returned to the harbor and got rid of the mosquitoes before going back to the boat.
It was a fun day, but I'm afraid paddling in the rain had a deleterious effect on Roy's cold. He's coughing a lot more, and I'm worried about his health.
We're on the fabled Olympic Peninsula, land of snow-capped mountains, forests, and water. We can't see the mountains from here, but we're surrounded by forests and water. La Push is at the confluence of the Quileute, Soleduck, and Dickey Rivers. It's the tribal home of the Quileute. There are perhaps sixty Quileute families here, mostly living in poverty. Their main sources of income are tourists and fish. There's a small grocery store, a post office, an RV park, a gift shop, and a small restaurant. The village also boasts an elementary school, a police car, and a vintage fire engine.
We strolled along the beach near the RV park. From there, the buoy that had appeared to be sitting on the beach when we were on the water now seemed to be at least a mile out.
The beach has huge piles of driftwood, stretching its entire length. Not little pieces of wood, but enormous trees, stumps, and branches. We shuddered, thinking of bumping into one of those things out on the ocean.
After lunch, we paddled across to James Island, which was named for the first white man to climb to the top of the hill. We found a long, steep staircase, nearly 500 feet straight up. There were old tracks that had been used to haul materials to the top of the hill when the foghorn and lights were being installed. Later, the tracks were abandoned and wooden steps were built over the ties. We had a terrific view from up there, but the periodic howl of the foghorn was nearly deafening.
Later, we Royaked up the various rivers. The Dickey was very pleasant, with dense forests on both sides. It looked much the way it did 200 years ago when Lewis and Clark paddled down it in their canoe. But we weren't able to go very far due to a logjam completely blocking the river.
The Quileute was wider, and the banks were more littered with human debris. We paddled up it a couple of miles and then came to shallow rapids. We could have walked over them, pulling our Royaks, but it was getting late, so we turned around.
We went over to the spit on the far side of the harbor. It's even more littered with driftwood than the beach we'd walked on earlier. Someone had constructed a little driftwood shelter. Inside it were driftwood tables and chairs. There were orderly arrangements of smooth rocks on the tables.
We started to paddle up the third river, but it soon became very narrow and turned into a swamp. It was eerily quiet in there--no birds, no animals, no fish, no turtles, no frogs. But a few zillion mosquitoes went for a ride on our Royaks. We returned to the harbor and got rid of the mosquitoes before going back to the boat.
It was a fun day, but I'm afraid paddling in the rain had a deleterious effect on Roy's cold. He's coughing a lot more, and I'm worried about his health.
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Wednesday, July 22, 1992 - La Push, WA
Wind still out of the southwest, so even though we'd have liked to spend more time in Westport, we left for La Push. Motored north at 5.5 knots. Fairly calm sea, light breeze, sprinkles.
Without charts and the GPS, we'd never have found La Push. From the sea, it's impossible to tell there's anything vaguely resembling a harbor in here. There was a buoy about four miles from shore. Other than that, all we could see was a high island, a lot of jagged rocks,and the wooded shore. We motored towards land for half an hour or more before we could even see the second buoy. The water around the buoy was full of white foam that looked like surf from a distance, and the buoy looked as if it was almost sitting on the beach. I started getting scared; it looked as if we were going straight into surf that was breaking on the shore. I was glad to turn the helm over to Roy and start getting the lines ready.
After we rounded the second buoy, we could see a green buoy in the distance, marking the narrow entrance to the harbor. Once we got behind the island, the going was easy, but we couldn't see any place to tie up in the marina. I tried to radio the harbor master, but there was no response, so we decided to anchor. Then the Coast Guard came on the radio and asked us our intentions. They advised us not to anchor because of the swift current from the river, so we tied to a wooden wall. But we no sooner got tied than the Coast Guard told us they had contacted the harbor master, and he said we could tie to the fuel dock overnight, so we moved the boat to the fuel dock.
Without charts and the GPS, we'd never have found La Push. From the sea, it's impossible to tell there's anything vaguely resembling a harbor in here. There was a buoy about four miles from shore. Other than that, all we could see was a high island, a lot of jagged rocks,and the wooded shore. We motored towards land for half an hour or more before we could even see the second buoy. The water around the buoy was full of white foam that looked like surf from a distance, and the buoy looked as if it was almost sitting on the beach. I started getting scared; it looked as if we were going straight into surf that was breaking on the shore. I was glad to turn the helm over to Roy and start getting the lines ready.
After we rounded the second buoy, we could see a green buoy in the distance, marking the narrow entrance to the harbor. Once we got behind the island, the going was easy, but we couldn't see any place to tie up in the marina. I tried to radio the harbor master, but there was no response, so we decided to anchor. Then the Coast Guard came on the radio and asked us our intentions. They advised us not to anchor because of the swift current from the river, so we tied to a wooden wall. But we no sooner got tied than the Coast Guard told us they had contacted the harbor master, and he said we could tie to the fuel dock overnight, so we moved the boat to the fuel dock.
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Tuesday, July 21, 1992 - Gray's Harbor, Westport
Rode the bus to Aberdeen. Bus fare here is only 25 cents. That's the regular fare, not the senior discount fare. And it's 25 miles to Aberdeen, a penny a mile. Very scenic ride, too.
Saw a lot of signs pointing to "Tall Ships", so we followed them. Turned out the one and only tall ship had gone to Tacoma for a few days. We went in the shop where a wooden longboat is being built. The craftsmen are off today, but it was interesting just looking around.
Walked over to a museum, but it's closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Finally found an ATM that would accept Roy's card, so he got some money.
Rode another bus to Hoquiam. Ate a delicious lunch at Duffy's. Mine was supposed to be "for the small appetite", but it seemed awfully big to me.
Walked along the riverside, admiring the murals painted on the walls. Went to another museum, but it was also closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Followed signs to "Hoquiam's Castle". It turned out to be an old 20-room house, high on a hill. It had been built in 1897 by a lumber baron. It's open to the public seven days a week until 5 p.m. When we got there, it had just closed.
Took the bus back to Aberdeen. Got there a little before six. Then I discovered there wouldn't be a bus to Westport until 8:30! Strolled around, watched part of a softball game, munched some goodies. Finally got back to the boat a little after nine.
Saw a lot of signs pointing to "Tall Ships", so we followed them. Turned out the one and only tall ship had gone to Tacoma for a few days. We went in the shop where a wooden longboat is being built. The craftsmen are off today, but it was interesting just looking around.
Walked over to a museum, but it's closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Finally found an ATM that would accept Roy's card, so he got some money.
Rode another bus to Hoquiam. Ate a delicious lunch at Duffy's. Mine was supposed to be "for the small appetite", but it seemed awfully big to me.
Walked along the riverside, admiring the murals painted on the walls. Went to another museum, but it was also closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Followed signs to "Hoquiam's Castle". It turned out to be an old 20-room house, high on a hill. It had been built in 1897 by a lumber baron. It's open to the public seven days a week until 5 p.m. When we got there, it had just closed.
Took the bus back to Aberdeen. Got there a little before six. Then I discovered there wouldn't be a bus to Westport until 8:30! Strolled around, watched part of a softball game, munched some goodies. Finally got back to the boat a little after nine.
Monday, December 13, 2010
Monday, July 20, 1992 - Gray's Harbor, Westport
Slowed down during the night so we wouldn't reach the entrance to the Columbia River in the dark, but we still got there before dawn. While we were hanging around, we listened to the weather forecast. Southwest wind today and tonight! Tomorrow, it will be back to northwest. We decided we'd better take advantage of the situation and head north while we can. Besides, we'd have had to buck the maximum outgoing tidal current if we'd gone into Astoria. So we ate a rocky breakfast and headed north to Gray's Harbor.
Following seas all the way. Very pleasant ride.
We had an unusual passenger. I was out on the aft deck and saw a lizard! She was about 8 inches long. Must have either crawled up a dock line when we were in port or climbed inside a Royak on the beach. As soon as she saw me, she fled in terror and hasn't been seen since.
Long entrance to Gray's Harbor. We'd never have known there was a harbor there if it hadn't been for the buoys. Buoy 8 was missing, which added to the confusion, but we finally found the entrance to Westport Marina (the chart says "Westhaven").
Tied to float 6 around 2:30. Ate lunch at a little restaurant. Walked over to the marina office and paid for two days. Then we strolled around.
This is a neat little place. We're glad we came here instead of going to Astoria. There's an observation tower that we climbed to the top of. Later, we walked out to the end of the fishing dock.
Following seas all the way. Very pleasant ride.
We had an unusual passenger. I was out on the aft deck and saw a lizard! She was about 8 inches long. Must have either crawled up a dock line when we were in port or climbed inside a Royak on the beach. As soon as she saw me, she fled in terror and hasn't been seen since.
Long entrance to Gray's Harbor. We'd never have known there was a harbor there if it hadn't been for the buoys. Buoy 8 was missing, which added to the confusion, but we finally found the entrance to Westport Marina (the chart says "Westhaven").
Tied to float 6 around 2:30. Ate lunch at a little restaurant. Walked over to the marina office and paid for two days. Then we strolled around.
This is a neat little place. We're glad we came here instead of going to Astoria. There's an observation tower that we climbed to the top of. Later, we walked out to the end of the fishing dock.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Sunday, July 19, 1992 - Gray's Harbor, Westport
Arrived outside Newport before dawn, so we idled around until daylight. This is a pretty tricky channel for a stranger. As we were going in, a zillion little power boats were zooming out.
Tied up at the fuel dock, but we only needed 12 gallons, so we got really good mileage coming here. There wasn't much room near the fuel dock for a boat our size. The attendant recommended we go to the other side of the harbor, where there's more room and it's closer to town. We had to do some maneuvering to turn around, but we made it.
Managed to find our way to the marina on the other side and tied to an end tie. Treated ourselves to a delicious breakfast at a nice restaurant. Then we walked over to a market with our little blue wagon and bought a few tons of groceries.
The wind's still out of the southwest, so we took off. This time, the little boats were coming in. Busiest harbor we've ever seen. Even a whale surfaced just outside the entrance.
Calm sea, pleasant day, light breeze. Motored north at six knots. We're on our way to Astoria!
Tied up at the fuel dock, but we only needed 12 gallons, so we got really good mileage coming here. There wasn't much room near the fuel dock for a boat our size. The attendant recommended we go to the other side of the harbor, where there's more room and it's closer to town. We had to do some maneuvering to turn around, but we made it.
Managed to find our way to the marina on the other side and tied to an end tie. Treated ourselves to a delicious breakfast at a nice restaurant. Then we walked over to a market with our little blue wagon and bought a few tons of groceries.
The wind's still out of the southwest, so we took off. This time, the little boats were coming in. Busiest harbor we've ever seen. Even a whale surfaced just outside the entrance.
Calm sea, pleasant day, light breeze. Motored north at six knots. We're on our way to Astoria!
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Saturday, July 18, 1992 - Oregon
Woke refreshed after a good night's sleep. Did the laundry in the dinky, overcrowded laundromat at the RV park. Roy secured the toaster oven and the cart, so they won't fall again. He also put a new latch on the tool cupboard.
Ken and another cruiser came in from Port Orford. They said the wind was blowing from the south! Even though NOAA Weather was still saying "northwest wind," we decided to believe the guys who'd been there, so we took off.
Very little wind, mostly from the west, which is fine. Sea was the calmest it's been in a long time. The "old" waves from the north were offset by the "new" waves from the south, so it was pretty flat. We motored peacefully.
Ken and another cruiser came in from Port Orford. They said the wind was blowing from the south! Even though NOAA Weather was still saying "northwest wind," we decided to believe the guys who'd been there, so we took off.
Very little wind, mostly from the west, which is fine. Sea was the calmest it's been in a long time. The "old" waves from the north were offset by the "new" waves from the south, so it was pretty flat. We motored peacefully.
Friday, December 10, 2010
Friday, July 17, 1992 - Coos Bay, OR
Got up at midnight, weighed anchor, and took off. Bright, nearly full moon. The southwest wind never materialized; in fact, there wasn't much wind of any kind. But there were large waves and swells from the northwest, so we were pounding into them all night, and everything that could fall on the floor did so. We'd forgotten to lock the door to the tool cabinet, so it came open and several cases fell out, strewing sockets, bits, wrenches, and who-knows-what all over the floor. The toaster oven nosedived with a resounding crash. The wagon flew out of the fo'c'sle. A shelf full of books slammed to the floor. The main cabin was a shambles. It looked as if Roy and I had had a big fight and thrown stuff at each other.
In the morning, I started to boil some eggs for breakfast. All of a sudden the propane stove crashed to the floor (Roy had mounted it), and the eggs turned to Humpty Dumptys. They were our last two eggs, so we ate bread and jam for breakfast.
We were going to stop at Bandon, but the Coast Guard said the bar was extremely hazardous and advised us to continue to Coos Bay. Got to Coos Bay around one. By dumb luck, it was high tide. so we had no trouble getting in, but this is a very confusing harbor for people who haven't been here before. We couldn't figure out which way to go. Called around on the VHF, but then a Coast Guard boat pulled up and guided us to the fuel dock. We filled 12 jerry cans as well as the tank. Over 100 gallons of diesel.
We tied to the transient dock and paid for one day ($8). Ate lunch at a little restaurant. Then we went back to the boat, and Roy changed the oil. I started to write the log but fell asleep.
In the morning, I started to boil some eggs for breakfast. All of a sudden the propane stove crashed to the floor (Roy had mounted it), and the eggs turned to Humpty Dumptys. They were our last two eggs, so we ate bread and jam for breakfast.
We were going to stop at Bandon, but the Coast Guard said the bar was extremely hazardous and advised us to continue to Coos Bay. Got to Coos Bay around one. By dumb luck, it was high tide. so we had no trouble getting in, but this is a very confusing harbor for people who haven't been here before. We couldn't figure out which way to go. Called around on the VHF, but then a Coast Guard boat pulled up and guided us to the fuel dock. We filled 12 jerry cans as well as the tank. Over 100 gallons of diesel.
We tied to the transient dock and paid for one day ($8). Ate lunch at a little restaurant. Then we went back to the boat, and Roy changed the oil. I started to write the log but fell asleep.
Thursday, December 9, 2010
Thursday, July 16, 1992 - Port Orford, OR
Beautiful, calm, sunny morning. It's so calm in this cove, it's hard to believe how hard it's blowing a few miles out. Every morning and evening, we listen to NOAA weather, expecting them to say the wind had died down to 3 knots or something, but all we ever hear is, "Small-craft advisories, northwest wind 15 to 25, locally to 30." I think they just made one tape and keep playing it over and over.
Roy spent the morning connecting the shortwave radio to the batteries, and I endeavored to repair the SSCA burgee, which was all frazzled.
A man we had met in Brookings arrived here last night in his boat. His name's Ken, and he's 62. He and his crew rowed over to the Jofian in their dinghy. He said they really took a pounding last night. Blew out the main. They steer outside, so they were soaking wet and cold. Nearly had hypothermia.
After lunch, we paddled around. Found a really neat cove with a big cave. The cave must have been at least 100 feet long, judging by the sound of the waves smashing into the far end. Boomed like thunder.
There was a cement wall, like a dam, along one side of the cove. We pulled up on the beach and climbed the steps to the top of the wall. On the other side was an old, wrecked-out dock and ways. It looked as if there had been a boathouse on top of the dock, but it had burned down. Abandoned electric poles were on the side of the wall, and there was an old shack near the top. We were immediately curious to find out the history of the place. We figured it must have been a Coast Guard station at one time, where they launched rescue boats.
We saw one or two whales swimming around outside the cove, not far from where we were. Roy took his camera back to the boat, while I paddled towards the breakwater, on my way to town. All of a sudden, a gray and white whale surfaced between me and the breakwater, not more than 30 or 40 feet in front of me! I let out a yelp and paddled backwards as fast as I could.
When Roy caught up with me, we paddled to shore without further incident and climbed the hill to Heads State Park. It was small but pleasant and well-maintained. Outside the perimeter of the park was a lot of underbrush, so we couldn't get close enough to the cliff to see the cove. We walked out a path to the point and had a great view of the ocean. It looked fairly calm.
Another tourist told us there was information about the Coast Guard station that used to be here on a sign near the parking lot, so we walked back there and read it. The station had been built in 1939 and abandoned during the '60s, when it became obsolete. The name of the cove was Nellie's Cove, and it was east of the barracks. We walked past the barracks in an easterly direction and lo! there was a paved walk heading into the brush. We went under a tree and found a long, long flight of steps. We walked down, down, down and found the shack we had seen from below. It had been a generator hut. We went farther down and could see the dock below and the old electric poles, but we couldn't get all the way down, because the steps changed to overgrown, rotten wood. We were so tickled to have been able to find that place! What a neat adventure!
When we got back to the boat, we listened to NOAA weather. Southwest wind at 15 knots predicted for tonight and tomorrow! Just what we'd been waiting for! We decided to leave at midnight.
Roy spent the morning connecting the shortwave radio to the batteries, and I endeavored to repair the SSCA burgee, which was all frazzled.
A man we had met in Brookings arrived here last night in his boat. His name's Ken, and he's 62. He and his crew rowed over to the Jofian in their dinghy. He said they really took a pounding last night. Blew out the main. They steer outside, so they were soaking wet and cold. Nearly had hypothermia.
After lunch, we paddled around. Found a really neat cove with a big cave. The cave must have been at least 100 feet long, judging by the sound of the waves smashing into the far end. Boomed like thunder.
There was a cement wall, like a dam, along one side of the cove. We pulled up on the beach and climbed the steps to the top of the wall. On the other side was an old, wrecked-out dock and ways. It looked as if there had been a boathouse on top of the dock, but it had burned down. Abandoned electric poles were on the side of the wall, and there was an old shack near the top. We were immediately curious to find out the history of the place. We figured it must have been a Coast Guard station at one time, where they launched rescue boats.
We saw one or two whales swimming around outside the cove, not far from where we were. Roy took his camera back to the boat, while I paddled towards the breakwater, on my way to town. All of a sudden, a gray and white whale surfaced between me and the breakwater, not more than 30 or 40 feet in front of me! I let out a yelp and paddled backwards as fast as I could.
When Roy caught up with me, we paddled to shore without further incident and climbed the hill to Heads State Park. It was small but pleasant and well-maintained. Outside the perimeter of the park was a lot of underbrush, so we couldn't get close enough to the cliff to see the cove. We walked out a path to the point and had a great view of the ocean. It looked fairly calm.
Another tourist told us there was information about the Coast Guard station that used to be here on a sign near the parking lot, so we walked back there and read it. The station had been built in 1939 and abandoned during the '60s, when it became obsolete. The name of the cove was Nellie's Cove, and it was east of the barracks. We walked past the barracks in an easterly direction and lo! there was a paved walk heading into the brush. We went under a tree and found a long, long flight of steps. We walked down, down, down and found the shack we had seen from below. It had been a generator hut. We went farther down and could see the dock below and the old electric poles, but we couldn't get all the way down, because the steps changed to overgrown, rotten wood. We were so tickled to have been able to find that place! What a neat adventure!
When we got back to the boat, we listened to NOAA weather. Southwest wind at 15 knots predicted for tonight and tomorrow! Just what we'd been waiting for! We decided to leave at midnight.
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Wednesday, July 15, 1992 - Port Orford, OR
Gale winds are predicted, so we moved the boat to a more sheltered anchorage, about 1/4 mile from where we were. Then we paddled ashore and caught the noon Greyhound to Coos Bay.
Last Father's Day, we drove up to Roy's son Steve's place near Sacramento and went swimming and Royaking in the lake. That evening, when we were gathering up our stuff to return to Richmond, I overlooked my bathing suit. Next morning, I phoned Allison and asked her to mail my suit to my daughter's address in Campbell. There was some mail that had arrived for Roy, so they put that in the package with the suit and sent it off. Unfortunately, it went to the wrong address and was eventually returned to Steve. By then, we were in Brookings and expected to be in Coos Bay in a few days, so we asked Steve to remail the package to General Delivery in Coos Bay. But Mother Nature had other plans and kept the northwest wind blowing 25 knots, so here we sit in Port Orford, 51 miles south of Coos Bay. Eager to get our mail, we decided to take the bus.
We enjoyed the pleasant, relaxing, scenic bus ride, and we got to preview our next two stops--Bandon and Coos Bay. The post office in Coos Bay is just a few blocks from the Greyhound station. We walked over there and got the package. There were Father's Day cards from Roy's children, a thank-you card from one of his grandsons, and his replacement ATM card, all of which Roy was very glad to receive. I, of course, was glad to get my swimsuit back, even though I probably won't use it much in Alaska!
When we got back to Port Orford, we bought a few groceries and ate some big, luscious wild blackberries. Then we paddled around, exploring the cove where we're anchored. There are a lot of weird rocks here. We went ashore on a little beach and checked out a small cave. Roy gathered some pretty agates. Then we paddled some more. Saw a lot of starfish and anemones.
Last Father's Day, we drove up to Roy's son Steve's place near Sacramento and went swimming and Royaking in the lake. That evening, when we were gathering up our stuff to return to Richmond, I overlooked my bathing suit. Next morning, I phoned Allison and asked her to mail my suit to my daughter's address in Campbell. There was some mail that had arrived for Roy, so they put that in the package with the suit and sent it off. Unfortunately, it went to the wrong address and was eventually returned to Steve. By then, we were in Brookings and expected to be in Coos Bay in a few days, so we asked Steve to remail the package to General Delivery in Coos Bay. But Mother Nature had other plans and kept the northwest wind blowing 25 knots, so here we sit in Port Orford, 51 miles south of Coos Bay. Eager to get our mail, we decided to take the bus.
We enjoyed the pleasant, relaxing, scenic bus ride, and we got to preview our next two stops--Bandon and Coos Bay. The post office in Coos Bay is just a few blocks from the Greyhound station. We walked over there and got the package. There were Father's Day cards from Roy's children, a thank-you card from one of his grandsons, and his replacement ATM card, all of which Roy was very glad to receive. I, of course, was glad to get my swimsuit back, even though I probably won't use it much in Alaska!
When we got back to Port Orford, we bought a few groceries and ate some big, luscious wild blackberries. Then we paddled around, exploring the cove where we're anchored. There are a lot of weird rocks here. We went ashore on a little beach and checked out a small cave. Roy gathered some pretty agates. Then we paddled some more. Saw a lot of starfish and anemones.
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Tuesday, July 14, 1992 - Orford, OR
Coming up here, Roy noticed that the alternator kept kicking out. He found a loose wire and fixed that. This morning, he started the engine to see if the alternator would work ok now. It kicked off almost immediately again. Then we noticed that the temperature warning light was lit, even though the water hadn't even started to warm up. Roy checked, and sure enough, one of those wires had shaken loose. He fixed it, and now everything seems to be working normally, thank goodness. He also disconnected the third battery. Always before, we just had two batteries. It looks as if we'll have to get a higher-rated circuit breaker for three batteries.
Next, he rearranged the staysail so it would have better shape. By then, it was nearly noon, and the wind was blowing pretty hard, but Roy paddled ashore anyway. I chickened out and stayed on the boat, torn between wanting to go ashore with Roy and being glad I was on the safe, secure boat.
The wind kept blowing harder and harder. The water was full of whitecaps. Fishing boats kept scurrying into port. One had to be towed in. I was puzzled, because I'd seen a dozen boats coming in, but there were only five visible in the harbor. The next boat that came in, I watched carefully. To my amazement, it was plucked out of the water by a crane and placed on the wharf! In this harbor, most of the boats are kept on the wharf instead of in the water. That says something about the wind.
It looked as if the Jofian was getting closer to the breakwater, so I turned on the radar. The breakwater was 1/8 mile away. Half an hour later, it was still 1/8 mile away, so the anchor was holding.
When Roy wasn't back by six, I began to get worried and turned on the VHF in case he was trying to contact me, but a few minutes later, I saw something gleam on the beach. I looked through the binoculars and saw Roy with the plastic water jug. I watched him bring his Royak and paddle down to the edge of the water. Soon, he was paddling back to the Jofian. The wind was blowing from the land towards the boat, so I knew he wouldn't have any problem getting out here, but I was afraid the wind and waves would carry him right past the boat. I got a line ready to throw him, just in case, but he didn't need it; he grabbed the toerail and pulled himself along to the ladder. I tied his Royak line to the boat, took his paddle, cushion, and bag of shoes, and helped him lift the five-gallon water jug onto the deck. Then he scrambled up the ladder. It was sure good to have him back on the boat safe and sound!
After supper, we tried to get the shortwave radio to work. After a lot of fiddling, the UTC time signals came in. Then Roy got a program in French, but we don't know if it was coming all the way from France of from three blocks away.
Next, he rearranged the staysail so it would have better shape. By then, it was nearly noon, and the wind was blowing pretty hard, but Roy paddled ashore anyway. I chickened out and stayed on the boat, torn between wanting to go ashore with Roy and being glad I was on the safe, secure boat.
The wind kept blowing harder and harder. The water was full of whitecaps. Fishing boats kept scurrying into port. One had to be towed in. I was puzzled, because I'd seen a dozen boats coming in, but there were only five visible in the harbor. The next boat that came in, I watched carefully. To my amazement, it was plucked out of the water by a crane and placed on the wharf! In this harbor, most of the boats are kept on the wharf instead of in the water. That says something about the wind.
It looked as if the Jofian was getting closer to the breakwater, so I turned on the radar. The breakwater was 1/8 mile away. Half an hour later, it was still 1/8 mile away, so the anchor was holding.
When Roy wasn't back by six, I began to get worried and turned on the VHF in case he was trying to contact me, but a few minutes later, I saw something gleam on the beach. I looked through the binoculars and saw Roy with the plastic water jug. I watched him bring his Royak and paddle down to the edge of the water. Soon, he was paddling back to the Jofian. The wind was blowing from the land towards the boat, so I knew he wouldn't have any problem getting out here, but I was afraid the wind and waves would carry him right past the boat. I got a line ready to throw him, just in case, but he didn't need it; he grabbed the toerail and pulled himself along to the ladder. I tied his Royak line to the boat, took his paddle, cushion, and bag of shoes, and helped him lift the five-gallon water jug onto the deck. Then he scrambled up the ladder. It was sure good to have him back on the boat safe and sound!
After supper, we tried to get the shortwave radio to work. After a lot of fiddling, the UTC time signals came in. Then Roy got a program in French, but we don't know if it was coming all the way from France of from three blocks away.
Monday, December 6, 2010
Monday, July 13, 1992 - Port Orford, OR
Slept like logs and woke up to a peasoup fog. It soon lifted, however, and the rest of the day was glorious. Clear blue sky, warm sun, cool breeze, green trees, blue ocean, high hills, jagged rocks. Beauty everywhere. Every place we go seems to be the most beautiful place on earth, and then we go someplace else, and it's even more beautiful.
Paddled ashore and walked around the little town. There's a fairly large lake here. Walked over to it. Ate luscious wild blackberries. Strolled to the other end of town. Saw Battle Rock. Ate a good lunch. The little restaurant was holding a contest to see who could answer the question of the day. I answered it correctly (the opening line of "Gone with the Wind") and supposedly won a free drink, but I got gypped, because I hadn't ordered a beverage, so they crossed Roy's coffee off the bill.
After lunch, we walked along the beach. I took off my shoes and socks so my toes could enjoy the sand, but Roy left his on. He tried to jump across a little stream and went kersplash!
We just got back to the boat in time. We hadn't been on the boat five minutes when the wind really came up. Must have been blowing 25 knots. There were whitecaps all around us, but the Jofian's anchor held securely.
A woman we chatted with this morning told us that fishermen say the wind blows hard a week before and the week after a full moon. The moon's full tonight, and the wind has certainly been blowing hard for the past week. It will be interesting to see if it calms down in a week.
Paddled ashore and walked around the little town. There's a fairly large lake here. Walked over to it. Ate luscious wild blackberries. Strolled to the other end of town. Saw Battle Rock. Ate a good lunch. The little restaurant was holding a contest to see who could answer the question of the day. I answered it correctly (the opening line of "Gone with the Wind") and supposedly won a free drink, but I got gypped, because I hadn't ordered a beverage, so they crossed Roy's coffee off the bill.
After lunch, we walked along the beach. I took off my shoes and socks so my toes could enjoy the sand, but Roy left his on. He tried to jump across a little stream and went kersplash!
We just got back to the boat in time. We hadn't been on the boat five minutes when the wind really came up. Must have been blowing 25 knots. There were whitecaps all around us, but the Jofian's anchor held securely.
A woman we chatted with this morning told us that fishermen say the wind blows hard a week before and the week after a full moon. The moon's full tonight, and the wind has certainly been blowing hard for the past week. It will be interesting to see if it calms down in a week.
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Sunday, July 12, 1992 - Port Orford, OR
The ride became a lot smoother after Roy unfurled the headsail in the middle of the night and took a northwest course. Still had to use the engine.
We had been thinking of going directly to Coos Bay, but the strong winds and heavy seas prompted us to go to Port Orford instead.
Only saw two other boats all night. One was a freighter about 3 miles away on Roy's watch. The other was a very large fishing boat on my watch. The fishing boat appeared to be on a collision course with us, so as soon as it was close enough for me to see the starboard light, I turned off Charlie (the auto-pilot) and headed for the boat's stern, passing 3/4 mile in back of it.
Reached Port Orford around 1:30 in the afternoon and dropped anchor. This is a small fishing village. There are no marinas here, just a large wharf.
We took a two-hour nap as soon as we got here. I always hate to take a nap during the day, because I wake up feeling blah, but after very little sleep last night, I really needed it.
It's a bright, clear, beautiful day, but the wind is howling. Supposed to go to 35 knots tonight, so we're very glad we're here and not out there.
We're averaging about four miles to the gallon on fuel. Used 23 gallons getting here from Brookings (102 miles the way we came; 55 if we'd been able to go right up the coast.) We only have 28 gallons left, so we'll have to see if we can get some here in Port Orford.
We had been thinking of going directly to Coos Bay, but the strong winds and heavy seas prompted us to go to Port Orford instead.
Only saw two other boats all night. One was a freighter about 3 miles away on Roy's watch. The other was a very large fishing boat on my watch. The fishing boat appeared to be on a collision course with us, so as soon as it was close enough for me to see the starboard light, I turned off Charlie (the auto-pilot) and headed for the boat's stern, passing 3/4 mile in back of it.
Reached Port Orford around 1:30 in the afternoon and dropped anchor. This is a small fishing village. There are no marinas here, just a large wharf.
We took a two-hour nap as soon as we got here. I always hate to take a nap during the day, because I wake up feeling blah, but after very little sleep last night, I really needed it.
It's a bright, clear, beautiful day, but the wind is howling. Supposed to go to 35 knots tonight, so we're very glad we're here and not out there.
We're averaging about four miles to the gallon on fuel. Used 23 gallons getting here from Brookings (102 miles the way we came; 55 if we'd been able to go right up the coast.) We only have 28 gallons left, so we'll have to see if we can get some here in Port Orford.
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Saturday, July 11, 1992
Cloudy, foggy, and cooler this morning. Wind has dropped to 10-20 knots, so we decided to make a run for it. Left Brookings around two p.m. Motorsailed west about forty miles; then we furled the headsail and motored north. The road had a lot of potholes in it; we bounced all over the place. I kept wondering how much punishment the engine could take, not to mention the people.
Friday, December 3, 2010
Friday, July 10, 1992 - Brookings, OR
Roy felt crummy this morning, so he rested on the boat, while I went for a walk. Strolled around Azalea Park, which is about a mile from here. No azaleas, but lots of tall, shady, beautiful trees.
Walked through some of the side streets in Brookings. This is a very pleasant, attractive little town. Big high school. One house had a fence made out of huge chunks of driftwood.
Walked over to Harris State Beach, about two miles north of town. Terrific view of the ocean from the cliff. Lots of big rocks along the coast. One huge rock (more like an island) had a passageway through the middle. It's called Arch Rock.
Roy felt better in the afternoon, so he rode his bike down the coast to Smith River, California, about six miles each way. When he got back to Brookings, he continued on to Harris State Beach. He was going just as I was returning, so we saw each other along the way.
Walked through some of the side streets in Brookings. This is a very pleasant, attractive little town. Big high school. One house had a fence made out of huge chunks of driftwood.
Walked over to Harris State Beach, about two miles north of town. Terrific view of the ocean from the cliff. Lots of big rocks along the coast. One huge rock (more like an island) had a passageway through the middle. It's called Arch Rock.
Roy felt better in the afternoon, so he rode his bike down the coast to Smith River, California, about six miles each way. When he got back to Brookings, he continued on to Harris State Beach. He was going just as I was returning, so we saw each other along the way.
Thursday, December 2, 2010
Thursday, July 9, 1992 - Brookings, OR
I walked over to the store and bought a bunch of groceries, while Roy worked on the galley plumbing.
After lunch, we rode our bikes eight miles to Loeb State Park and swam in the river. Boy, did that feel good! Water was just the right temperature to cool us off, and the air was just the right temperature to warm us up. It was so pleasant, floating downstream, looking up at the green trees and blue sky.
The road to Loeb Park is amazing. It's downhill in both directions! All the way going, I kept thinking what a grind it was going to be returning, but to my utter amazement, the return trip was downhill, too! How can that be? I've hiked some mountain trails that went uphill both ways, but this is the first time I've been on a road that went downhill both ways. I can't figure it.
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Wednesday, July 8, 1992 - Brookings, OR
Fun, fun, fun! Paddled our Royaks two or three miles up the Chetco River, until it got too shallow to go farther. Twice we had to wade and tow our Royaks.
Pulled up on a rocky beach. I went for a good swim, while Roy played with a friendly doggie.
Ate lunch and loafed around in the warm sunshine and caressing breeze. What a beautiful place!
When we started back, Roy said we should pull our Royaks through the rapids instead of risking damaging them paddling through. Then HE paddled through! What a deal! But he still has a bad cold, and I feel fine, so I can't get mad at him.
This old wooden dock we're tied to is falling apart. It's likely to go at any minute.
There's a fish market a few hundred yards from here that has fresh snapper for $2.25 a pound! That's the lowest I've ever seen it. Bought a pound.
It's amazing how late it stays light around here. There's still some daylight at 9:30! We went for a pleasant stroll along the beach after 9.
Pulled up on a rocky beach. I went for a good swim, while Roy played with a friendly doggie.
Ate lunch and loafed around in the warm sunshine and caressing breeze. What a beautiful place!
When we started back, Roy said we should pull our Royaks through the rapids instead of risking damaging them paddling through. Then HE paddled through! What a deal! But he still has a bad cold, and I feel fine, so I can't get mad at him.
This old wooden dock we're tied to is falling apart. It's likely to go at any minute.
There's a fish market a few hundred yards from here that has fresh snapper for $2.25 a pound! That's the lowest I've ever seen it. Bought a pound.
It's amazing how late it stays light around here. There's still some daylight at 9:30! We went for a pleasant stroll along the beach after 9.
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