Got a really good night's sleep. Woke up to a gentle rain. It's so quiet and peaceful here. Except for the lodge, it's total wilderness, just as it was centuries ago. More than ever, we feel as though we're on a lovely lake, high in the mountains. All around us are dense woods and mountain tops lost in clouds. The water is totally calm except for tiny ripples from the raindrops and the splash of leaping fish. No waves, no wind, no surf -- how can this be the ocean?
Had a great time paddling in the rain. The chart showed a tramway going to Lake MacDonald, but all I found were some wooden posts, so old that plants were growing out of them, and a broken, twisted piece of unrecognizable metal.
Saw an incredible number of bald eagles. Most flew away when I approached, but some sat right where they were and looked at me. They were probably guarding their nests.
A big school of fish swam by me so close I probably could have caught one if I'd had a net.
We left Yes Bay around two and went over to the Bell Island Hot Spring Resort. We were thinking of spending the night there and soaking in the hot spring, but when we talked to them on the VHF, they said we couldn't stay overnight, and the pool that's fed by the hot spring is closed, so we kept going through the Behm Narrows. Some porpoises played around the bow, reminding us that yes, we really are on the ocean. Then we rounded Point Whaley and knew we were on the ocean! The wind was suddenly blowing 20 knots and there were whitecaps all over. Fortunately, we were only a couple of miles from Fitzgibbon Cove, so we scooted over there and dropped anchor (two anchors) in relative calm.
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