Wednesday, August 12, 1992 - Klemtu, BC

Woke up in paradise. So still, peaceful, beautiful. The only sounds were the ones we made ourselves.
Left at the crack of dawn and ate breakfast en route. We had planned on going to Bella Bella today, but we made such good time that it wasn't even two o'clock when we got there, so we kept going. Had one close call early in the morning when we nearly hit an uncharted, submerged rock, but other than that, it was a very pleasant day. Even had a good sailing wind when we were in Milbanke Sound, which opens to the Pacific. Turned off the engine and zoomed along at 6 1/2 knots for about two hours.
The Indian village of Klemtu lies behind five-mile-long Cone Island. Klemtu Passage is indescribably beautiful, with steep wooded hills rising on both sides. We arrived at the village a little after eight, but it was still daylight. We had planned on tying to the Government dock, but there was no room, so we went to a dilapidated dock where there was a hand-painted sign saying, "Notice - Village Float - Use at your own risk - Band Council." The float was broken, tilted at crazy angles, and some boards were missing, but what was left was sturdy and serviceable, so we tied up there. This time, I threw the grappling anchor over the dock on the first try.
Klemtu is somewhat reminiscent of the villages in Mexico. The dirt roads wander in every direction but straight. However, there are street lights and fire hydrants, and most of the houses are well-built. The most interesting feature is a wooden road/sidewalk that runs along the water for about half a mile, connecting the fishing wharves with the main part of the village. While we were walking along it, two big, friendly dogs came out of their yards and accompanied us.
We were looking for a restaurant but weren't surprised when we didn't find one. Went into the tiny, crowded store and bought a few groceries. The people here are pleasant, and the children are full of fun and laughter. One little boy got a big kick out of pretending to be hurt when I closed the refrigerator door. He let out a yelp and grabbed his elbow, but when I expressed concern, he began laughing hilariously. Everyone in the store joined in.
We had just gotten back to our ramshackle dock when a very loud siren sounded. Apparently, it was the ten o'clock curfew. Moments later, the wake from a passing boat hit the floats in a series of waves that sent the floats leaping up and down, back and forth, every which way. Roy was on one float, and I was on another, our legs spread apart trying to keep our balance, wondering if the crazy old floats would fall apart. Water sloshed over the float I was on, soaking my shoes and pants legs. Somehow, we managed to remain upright, the floats held together, and in due course, calm returned.