Tuesday, August 11, 1992 - Pruth Bay, BC

An absolutely glorious day! Blue sky, warm sun, calm water--a perfect day for crossing the dreaded Queen Charlotte Sound, which is the longest stretch of unprotected water between Vancouver and Skagway.
We left Port Hardy at the first crack of dawn, while there was still enough water for us to get out. Glided along on glassy water, dodging fishing boats, nets, and logs. Crossing the sound was like crossing a lake--no waves and just a light breeze.
Roy raised all three sails and turned off the engine. Immediately, we became aware of a strange sound, like water rushing into the boat. We looked at each other in surprise and fear. But after a few seconds, we realized we had simply forgotten to turn off the defroster fans.
As soon as we got behind Calvert Island, we lost the wind and had to revert to using the engine.
We turned down Kwakshua Channel and anchored in Pruth Bay. Surely, this must be one of the loveliest places on the face of the earth! It's so still and peaceful. Dense woods grow right down to the high rocks that edge the water. The water is like a mirror, reflecting the trees around it and the boats on it. There is no trash in the water, and the air is clean and sweet.
We paddled to a little beach and walked along a trail through the woods. The weird face of a demon was carved into a living tree. It had a long, curving, pointed nose, tusklike teeth, and bulging eyes. We have no idea who carved it, when, or why, but the carver was certainly an artist with a vivid imagination as well as a skilled craftsman.
After about a mile, we emerged onto a lovely, curving beach. The sand was so fine, it was almost powdery. The cove was full of rocks; it would be a great place for scuba diving.
Met a couple from near Seattle. They have an 80-foot yacht that used to be a survey boat. When they were in Ketchikan a couple of weeks ago, they went aground on a submerged rock. The boat tilted fifty degrees! Spilled hundreds of gallons of fuel from their
4500-gallon tank all over the interior. Drowned the electrical panel. Gashed a hole in the hull. It took a week to repair the damage.
When we were paddling back to the boat, I heard a "whup, whup" and looked around. There was an eagle, flying very low! Had a small animal in his talons. He alighted on a rock, and I quietly paddled to within thirty feet of him before he flew away. Closest I've ever been to an eagle in the wilds.